Diamond Cutting
How diamond transforms nature’s hardest gem
Did you know natural diamonds are so hard that only two things can cut through their surface? It’s true – only another diamond or a powerful laser beam can do the job. That’s why diamond cutters need special tools dusted with tiny diamond particles or fitted with diamond-edged blades. These days, they also use laser technology that can slice through diamonds with incredible precision.
You might think a diamond cutter’s primary goal is to keep as much of the original stone as possible, but there’s so much more to their craft than that. These skilled artisans are really like symphony conductors, carefully balancing four crucial elements: carat, colour, clarity, and cut. They bring out the very best in each stone, creating something far more precious than just a large cut diamond. Their expertise transforms these stones into dazzling works of art that capture light and imagination in equal measure.
The story behind diamond cutting
In 1919, master craftsman Marcel Tolkowsky cracked the code of the perfect diamond. His discovery? The same golden ratio that shapes nautilus shells and galaxies also unlocks a diamond’s inner fire.
It comes down to precise mathematics: magic happens when a diamond’s crown and height measure precisely 60% of its width. Add 58 perfectly placed facets, and you’ve got nature’s ultimate light show.
But perfection has narrow margins. Cut too shallow – below 55% – and you’ll get what gemologists call a “fish eye,” where light slips away instead of dancing back to your eyes. Cut too deep – over 65% – and you’re left with a “nail head,” its surface dotted with dark spots where brilliance should be.
The diamond’s secret blueprint
Every rough diamond holds a whisper of its final shape – two pyramids joined at their base, like nature’s own blueprint. While these stones might look unassuming when they first emerge from the earth, their crystalline structure (what scientists call trigonal) is like the diamond’s DNA. A master cutter reads these hidden patterns, seeing the perfect gem waiting in its core.
In skilled hands, one rough diamond can birth two or three treasures. A master cutter might coax both a dazzling 50-pointer and a delicate 15-pointer from a single stone, each one cut to maximise its potential while honouring its natural architecture.
Sometimes, less truly brings more value. A slightly smaller diamond cut to perfect proportions often outshines its larger cousins in both beauty and worth. Take a 99-pointer (weighing 0.99 carats) – when cut to ideal proportions, it can fetch 20% more than a full-carat stone with compromised cuts.
Choosing a diamond cut
Every diamond shape tells its own story of sparkle. Up close, nothing rivals the round brilliant’s intimate light show – its 58 facets create a dazzling dance that captivates the eye. But step back, and the emerald cut takes centre stage, its bold, architectural facets painting with light across vast spaces. It’s no accident these cuts dominate red carpets and command attention on camera.
Between these two masters of light live their artistic cousins. Cushion cuts whisper romance, princess cuts speak of modern elegance, and marquise cuts write their own rules of refraction. Each one plays differently with light, creating its own signature brilliance.
Yet in the end, a diamond’s true magic lies not in mathematics or mastery, but in that moment when the right stone catches the right eye – and sparks fly.
Quality diamonds at The Diamond Works
In a Sparkling Tour, you can learn more about diamond cutting at The Diamond Works in Cape Town – and watch our diamond cutters in action.
Book now to join this experience and learn more about choosing a quality diamond.
FAQs
Which diamond cut sparkles the most?
The brilliant round cut is technically the sparkliest. Up close, it is unmatched in its scintillation. But, from afar, emerald cuts and other similar fancy cuts (pear-shaped, baguette-cut) are the sparkliest – so if you are on camera or seen across a room, pick those!
What are the different diamond cuts and shapes?
There are many, but the most popular include round-cut, emerald-cut, cushion-cut, princess-cut, square-cut, pear-shaped, heart-shaped, marquise-cut, oval-shaped, and the Asscher-cut.
How do you know you are buying a good quality diamond?
Make sure the dimensions match the carat weight, that the girdle is not overly thick or thin, that it comes with the proper certification (preferably choose GIA-certified diamonds), that it doesn’t have strong fluorescence, and that the grade is above SI2. With round brilliant cuts, ensure the proportions are correct: the height and table must be 55% – 65% of the diamond’s diameter. Every diamond at The Diamond Works meets these standards.